My TOP 100 ICE CLIMBS
Water in its frozen state is for sure the element which inspired and challenged me the most in my life.
I started water ice climbing in winter 1993. Back then I ventured on little frozen steps. I climbed with one classic piolet and one ice hammer. I wore touring ski boots and classic 12 point crampons with straps. Setting screws was a hairy business but it was possible to set them already free. Wearing big gloves was normal, so I had huge mittens and even with leashes I was always pumped. The big evolution in the ice climbing material over the last decade changed only two things - you can climb faster and you can do crazier lines. The ice in its true, unforgiving and very changeable character will always remain the same: a fantastic challenge!!!
Below you will find the list of my favorite ice climbs on frozen water falls. Of course a lot of them are in the higher grade and objectively very dangerous but most important they all have been great experiences and I would not miss one memory - even when some are partly very painfully. I like to thank my partner Tanja and also her twin sister Heike for many unforgettable days on the ice.
So here my 100 Top ice falls out of the over 1000 I have done - the list will be for sure updated in the future...
nb.: the list is my subjective impression of beauty - the falls are NOT listed in a rank of difficulty
1 Svartberg Fall, Gudvangen, Norway - recently named also ‘Middagshovdenfossen’
2 Kjerrskredkvelven, Gudvangen, Norway
3 Rappelle toi que tu es un homme, Vallee du Couleau, France video
4 Juste une illusion, Gramusat, France
5 Finnkona, Senja, Norway
6 Les Misérables, Icefields Parkway, Canada video
7 Buddha Nature DIRECT, Storm Creek Headwall, Canada
8 Crack Baby, Breitwangen, Switzerland
9 Le Mulot, Rivière Saint Marguerite, Québec
10 Fearful Symmetry, Ghost Valley, Canada
11 Rainbow Serpent, Ghost Valley, Canada
12 Stormbringer, Eidfjord, Norway
13 Skredbekken direct, Sørdalen, Norway
14 Fjåene Fossen, Eidfjord, Norway
15 The Replicant, Trophy Wall, Canada
16 Patience, Megève Cote 2000, France
17 Lipton, Rjukan, Norway video
18 Rapelle toi que tu es un gnome, Vallee du Rabioux, France
19 Buon Compleanno, Gondo, Switzerland
20 Eisgeist, Bletterbach, Italy
21 The Pencil, Icefields Parkway, Canada
22 La Goutte, Banff, Canada
23 Seebenseefall, Ehrwald, Austria
24 Shooting Star, Icefields Parkway, Canada video
25 Hydnefossen, Hemsedal, Norway video
26 Gramusat directe, Gramusat, France
27 The day after the vacances of Monsieur Hulot, Stanley Headwall, Canada
28 French Reality, Stanley Headwall, Canada
29 Hard Ice Direct, Cogne, Italy
30 Mehr Power durch sportliche Aufkleber, Kandersteg, Switzerland
31 Reise Integral, Kandersteg, Swtizerland
32 Shiva Lingam, Argentiere, France
33 Stortstampen Pillars, Bardujord, Norway so far 4 ASCENTS : 2018, 2019, 2020, 2023
34 Nemesis, Stanley Headwall, Canada so far 14 ASCENTS - all in November or earlier…
35 Repentance, Cogne, Italy so far 62 ASCENTS - Fast Ascent in February 2018: 4h18min for the full line to the Plateau money and the approach from the Parking in Valnontey and back again
36 La Loutre, Malbaie, Québec
37 Killer Pillar, Stanley Headwall, Canada
38 Whiteman Falls, Kananaskis, Canada - so far 12 ascents video
39 Kerze, Pinistal, Austria
40 Speedy Gonzales, Rivière Saint Marguerite, Québec
41 Männer ohne Nerven Super Direct, Pinistal, Austria
42 Gros Lard, Entre les Aigues, France
43 Rübezahl, Kandersteg, Switzerland
44 Icelander, Argentiere, France
45 Mikado, Rovenaud, Italy
46 Prinz Eisenherz, Zillertal, Austria
47 Azimut Brutal, Oisans, France
48 Heimdal, Valtournenche, Italy
49 Suffer Machine, Stanley Headwall, Canada
50 Virtual Reality, Icefields Parkway, Canada - so far 5 ascents - 2012, 2015, 2017, 2019, 2023 mostly season fa’s
51 Frenesie Pascal, Argentiere, France
52 Pomme d’Or, Malbaie, Québec
53 Rubbenbekken, Sørdalen, Norway so far 7 Ascents since 2018
54 Cadeau Surprise, Maurienne, France
55 Gouter des Généraux, Maurienne, France
56 Glacenost, Maurienne, France
57 Esmeralda, Freissiniere, France
58 Nuit blanche, Argentiere, France
59 Crash, Storm Creek Headwall, Canada
60 Cascata di Planaval, Val Grisenche, Italy
61 Pattinaggio Direct, Cogne, Italy
62 Vekter, Utladalen, Norway
63 Flågbekken, Troms, Norway so far 16 Ascents since 2018
64 Oh le Tabernac, Icefields Parkway, Canada
65 Tradimento Direct, Cogne, Italy video
66 Søylefossen, Spansdalen, Norway
67 Haizähne, Kandersteg, Switzerland
68 Sacre Bleu, Trophy Wall, Canada
69 In the spirit of crazy horse, Mount Wilson, Canada
70 Sorcerer, Ghost Valley, Canada
71 Blue Magic, Kandersteg, Switzerland
72 Ricamo, Cogne, Italy
73 Pilat, Gardena Valley, Italy video
74 Patry Destra Super Direct, Cogne, Italy
75 (In)Achevée Conception, Cogne, Italy video
76 Zauberflöte, Lunga Valley, Italy video
77 La Linea, Renkfälle, Austria
78 Hydrophobia, Ghost, Canada
79 Pilier Simon-Proulx Variation, Rivière Sait Marguerite, Québec
80 Cold Couloir integral, Cogne, Italy video
81 Beau Voyage, Chichin, France
82 Cascade des Violins, Freissiniere, France video
83 Les Chasseurs de Glace, Mauvoisin, Switzerland video
84 Dancing with Chaos, Icefields Parkway, Canada
85 Hängende Gärten, Lüsens, Austria
86 Titanic, Gondo, Switzerland
87 Cascade du Veisivi, Val d'Herens, Switzerland
88 Weeping Wall Central Pillar, Icefields Parkway, Canada
89 Haugsfossen, Rjukan, Norway
90 Lau Bij, Cogne, Italy - impossible to remember all the ascents, but for sure far more than 30….eo
91 Desperados, Argentiere, France
92 Candela dell' aqua minerale, Morgex, Italy video
93 Juvsøyla, Rjukan, Norway so far 18 Ascents
94 Clair de lunule, Fournel, France
95 Altro volto del pianeta, Val d'Argentera, Italy
96 Rubbsnyten, Sørdalen, Norway
97 Kitty Hawk, Nordegg, Canada
98 Nasty Habits, Icefields Parkway, Canada
99 Pilsner Pillar, Field, Canada
100 Cascade du Dard, Sixt, France
APPENDIX
The following climbs are not more in the top 100’s ( they just fell out and had to make place to new additions) but offer some good climbing - this appendix is by no means complete because it would crash the volume of this page if I would list up all the lines I have done…
100.1 Trip in the Night, Valsavarenche, Italy
100.2 Thriller, Gressoney, Italy
100.3 Havanna, Pitztal, Austria
100.4 Impatience, Freissiniere, France
100.5 Monsterline, Pitztal, Austria
100.6 Cascade Chantriaux, Freissiniere, France
100.7 Stella Artice, Cogne, Italy - impossible to remember all the ascents but for sure more than 30…
100.8 Das Problem, Obergricht, Austria
100.9 Murchsion Falls, Icefields Parkway, Canada
100.10 Bourgeau Left, Sunshine, Canada
